Westerly Pageant 23 Sailboats for Sale

Layouts on the Used Market

The Pageant 23 follows a single fundamental interior arrangement — the Laurent Giles layout that gave the boat its unlikely reputation for spaciousness. A V-berth forward occupies the bow and is comparatively generous for the LOA; aft of that sits a saloon with settee berths that can be configured as a double, and a fold-down or fixed table at center. The enclosed head compartment is situated to port, a distinguishing feature of the design. Quarter berths extend aft of the saloon under the side decks, and the galley occupies a compact space adjacent to the companionway. Because Westerly produced the Pageant over roughly nine years with relatively minor evolution, buyers will find the interior footprint consistent across the production run. What varies is the state of the original woodwork, the galley appliances fitted, and how previous owners have addressed the fixed saloon windows — original boats came with non-opening saloon glazing, and many have been modified to introduce opening portlights for ventilation. Original vinyl headliners with foam backing are frequently in poor condition on unrestored boats; some owners have removed and painted the overhead rather than replace the liner.

Equipment and Common Upgrades

A chartplotter is commonly fitted on surviving examples, reflecting the navigation standards buyers have come to expect even on small cruisers. Beyond that, the equipment picture is largely shaped by what individual owners have chosen to invest. Solar panels represent a common owner upgrade, and given the modest electrical demands of a boat this size, even a modest panel array provides meaningful self-sufficiency for weekend cruising. Spinnakers sometimes appear in documented inventories, particularly on boats whose owners raced them in club events. Heating upgrades are seen on boats used in the colder northern European climates where the type is most common — diesel or solid-fuel heaters fitted into the saloon extend the sailing season considerably in the UK and the Low Countries. The original rig was a fractional masthead sloop with a genoa on a forestay; roller-furling headsail conversions are a common improvement seen on well-maintained boats. The outboard motor is the standard auxiliary choice, used from a transom bracket or a purpose-cut well on heavily modified examples, though some early boats retained a Volvo MD-1 inboard diesel. On boats that have carried an inboard engine, the engine bay is a space that has often been repurposed when the original motor was removed. Standing rigging on boats of this vintage is frequently original or of unknown age and should be treated accordingly.

What to Inspect

The twin keels deserve thorough inspection at the top of the list. The cast-iron fins attach to the hull via stainless steel bolts, and the keel-to-hull joint and the attachment hardware should be examined closely for any signs of movement, weeping rust stains, or deterioration of the sealant. Cast iron corrodes differently from lead; surface pitting in the keel fins is typical on older boats and is manageable with fairing and epoxy barrier coat, but deep corrosion into the material warrants evaluation by a boatyard. The hull-to-keel joint should be sound and sealed; the joint is best resealed with a robust adhesive sealant when the keels are dropped for inspection.

The fiberglass hull itself was built under Lloyd's supervision and is legitimately overbuilt, which is encouraging, but osmotic blistering can still occur on boats that have spent extended periods in the water without barrier coat maintenance. A moisture meter survey is worthwhile. The bilge area on boats with the original inboard engine removed deserves careful inspection for signs of poor plumbing work or abandoned through-hull fittings. The standing rigging on any example approaching or past its half-century mark is a priority concern regardless of apparent condition; replace it before offshore work if the history is unknown.

Below the waterline, the original fixed-skeg rudder on unmodified boats should be checked for play in its pintles and gudgeons and for any delamination at the blade edges. The transom, which on some boats has been modified to accept an outboard well or a transom-hung rudder, should be inspected for structural integrity — any major cockpit or transom surgery is a point to understand fully before purchase.

Inside, pay attention to the condition of the freshwater tank under the V-berth, typically stainless steel on original boats; inspection ports fitted to the top of the tank allow cleaning and examination for corrosion. The saloon windows are a known weak point: the original fixed glazing is prone to leaking where it meets the cabin sides, and any signs of water tracking into the cabin should prompt investigation into the condition of the cabin sides and any soft spots in the surrounding deck. Deck hardware fastenings on boats of this age are routinely found with bedding compound that has hardened and cracked; any deck fitting showing slight movement or discoloration around its base warrants removal and rebedding.

Availability and Buyer's Takeaway

The Westerly Pageant 23 is most widely available in the United Kingdom and the Netherlands, where the type was popular during its production years and has remained in quiet use ever since. Occasional examples surface in North America — the boat was exported to Chesapeake Bay dealers among other markets — but transatlantic finds are uncommon rather than routine. Buyers outside Europe should factor in import logistics or be prepared to widen their geographic search.

For the right buyer — someone who values genuine interior volume and the twin-keel versatility of drying-out harbors over outright sailing performance, and who is comfortable with a restoration-generation boat — the Pageant 23 offers an honest platform. The Laurent Giles hull is sound by design and construction; what degrades is the systems layered on top of it. Go in with eyes open, budget for rigging and any sealing work, and the boat rewards the investment.

Before you buy, confirm:

• Keel bolts and hull-to-keel joint inspected and resealed if any doubt
• Moisture meter survey of hull and deck
• Standing rigging age and condition verified; replace if history is unknown
• All through-hulls identified, operable, and in good condition
• Freshwater tank inspected for corrosion, especially if no inspection port is present
• Deck hardware and cabin window surrounds checked for leaks and soft spots
• Engine or outboard installation examined; abandoned inboard engine bays cleared and properly sealed
• Original rudder pintles, gudgeons, and blade integrity verified (or transom-hung replacement fully assessed)