Design and Construction
Butler’s brief called for a performance cruiser with one-design ambitions. The Capri 25 combines those roles in a hull measuring 24 feet 7 inches overall, with a 19-foot waterline, a 9-foot 2-inch beam, and a displacement of roughly 2,950 pounds. It’s trailerable and almost 1,400 pounds lighter than the Catalina 25. Catalina achieved that difference by reducing ballast by 600 pounds, substituting Coremat for some hull and deck laminate, and omitting the cruising Catalina 25’s cabin furniture and on-deck anchor locker.
The boat has a spooned, raked stem and vertical transom, along with a fin keel and internally mounted spade rudder controlled by a tiller. A shoal-draft wing-keel version was also offered for shallower waters.
Construction is predominantly hand-laid fiberglass, with plywood-core reinforcement in the deck. Compared with the Catalina 25, the Capri carries slightly more sail area on a sleeker fin. Testers found it much faster: its average PHRF rating of 171 is 54 seconds quicker than the Catalina 25 and only 3 seconds per mile off the pace of the J/24.
Rig and Handling
Sources differ on the rig. One authority describes a fractional sloop with a deck-stepped mast, while the construction reference lists a masthead Bermuda sloop with a cabin-top halyard winch pair and two jib winches on the cockpit coamings.
The racing intent is clear either way. The sail inventory includes a spinnaker for club competition, and the split cockpit places the mainsheet traveler just ahead of the tiller, allowing clean crew movement. With a sail-area-to-displacement ratio near 19 and a ballast ratio around 36 percent, the Capri 25 is lively rather than sluggish. One owner also describes a wide deck and decent interior volume for a boat of this length.
Accommodations and Auxiliary Power
Below deck, the Capri 25 is more spartan than the cruising Catalina 25 but roomier than a J/24, with six inches more headroom than that benchmark racer. The layout centers on a bow V-berth, two settee berths in the main cabin, and, in some configurations, two quarter berths aft.
Galley provisions are basic: a sink and icebox sit beneath the companionway ladder. A chemical head is fitted under the forward berth. Formica, plywood trim, and molded liners keep the interior modest, light, and simple to maintain.
Auxiliary power comes from a transom-mounted outboard rated at 6 to 10 horsepower.
Known Issues
Decades of service have revealed a predictable set of weaknesses. Water entering around stanchions and chainplates can cause soft spots in the deck core, where failed bedding allows moisture to reach the plywood reinforcement.
Many surviving boats still carry their original wire standing rigging, which needs replacement for safety as the metal ages. Early hulls also used foam-core rudders that can absorb water and lose integrity, a problem associated with the spade-rudder configuration.
Gelcoat crazing on the deck and topsides is mainly cosmetic, though it can be extensive. The boat’s simple electrical system often needs rewiring or a panel upgrade for reliable modern use.
Refits and Ownership
Owners have addressed the design’s limitations with targeted upgrades. Common projects include replacing the rudder and reinforcing the transom to carry heavier modern outboards that exceed the original 6-to-10-horsepower norm.
Straightforward fiberglass construction and a trailerable design keep the Capri 25 accessible to DIY owners. Its one-design class structure also supports a continuing racing community.
The Verdict
The Capri 25 is a lean, quick 1980s design that performs above expectations for its length against established racers, while providing just enough cabin for cruising. Its main weaknesses lie in aging systems and water-prone deck cores, but its simple construction makes those problems tractable.
Pros
- Faster than the Catalina 25 and nearly on pace with a J/24 under PHRF
- Trailerable, with a light, easily handled rig
- More room below than a J/24, with a practical berth layout
Cons
- Foam-core rudders on early boats can absorb water
- Stanchion and chainplate leaks can cause soft spots in the deck core
- Original wire rigging and simple electrical systems often need replacement






